Korean fried chicken manhattan
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Piles of the twice-cooked chicken, available in large portions ($14.95) or mammoth ones ($18.95), are accompanied by a little heap of deep-fried garlic cloves, a bowl of pickled daikon radish and French fries or onion rings (choose the fries). Why other cultures have not picked up on this Korean innovation is a question I can’t answer. The rotisserie keeps the flesh moist (even the cottony breast meat common to all lesser chickens) and the deep-fryer ensures crackling crisp skin. Another is evident as soon as a platter of the chicken hits the table.
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One answer explains why humans deep-fry just about anything: because they can. He couldn’t fathom why they would want to go and do that.
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It echoes a question from a friend when I tried to lure him to this Koreatown restaurant with the promise of deep-fried rotisserie chicken. asks over and over in “Why You Wanna,” one of the many hip-hop hits to guzzle beer by at Restaurant Forte Baden Baden. Here’s how the new breed of poultry palaces stack up.HEY why you wanna go and do that?” T. And to facilitate the massive amount of takeout business they hope to do, there’s the high-gloss, extra-fancy shopping bag-the symbolic bucket of the Korean fried-chicken world, if you will. There’s the slick, often-orange-hued décor, the lost-in-translation corporate slogan, and the refrigerator magnets. The distinctive preparation, though, is not the only mark of a Korean fried-chicken joint.
KOREAN FRIED CHICKEN MANHATTAN SKIN
When done right, the skin of these birds is paper-thin, crunchy, and greaseless, adhering harmoniously to the flavorful meat beneath.
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Typically fried twice and painted with either a sweetish soy-garlic sauce or a pepper-flecked hot one, it’s most often sold in servings of wings, drumsticks, or combos, with a complimentary (and outlandishly healthy) side of pickled white-radish cubes for piquant crunch. Why is this great news for finger-licking fans? The Korean bird, denuded of the southern-style classic’s heavy batter, is a thing of relative grace and minimalist beauty. Korean fried chicken, an inspired, delectable variation of our homegrown kind, has made gradual inroads Stateside, but not until recently has it reached critical mass in the region’s various Koreatowns. Mark our words: 2007 will go down as the year KFC took on another, much more delicious meaning (to fried-chicken fanatics at least).